Dream of White Sheep
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.4049, -116.12373 |
| FA: | May, 1982, Avery Tichner, Ray Brooks, Jeff ?? |
| Page Views: | 777 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Carlson on Dec 18, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
ALERT: THERE IS CURRENTLY AN UNAVOIDABLE INFESTION OF POISON OAK AT THE P2 BELAY ANCHOR, AND ALSO TO THE RIGHT OF THE LARGE BRUSH. ALSO, THERE IS A LARGE LOOSE BLOCK ABOUT 2/3 OF THE WAY UP P3. UNTIL WE CLEAR THESE, IT'S PROBABLY BEST TO AVOID DREAM OF WHITE SHEEP!!
Pitch 1: Short scramble over relatively easy, slabby blocks. Would benefit from some cleaning. Ends at a two-bolt anchor next to a bush.
Pitch 2: Lieback up the huge dihedral. Crack starts thin, but then opens up to take midsize cams. Ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Continue up ledge to the right following shorter dihedral. Pitch appears to end at a third two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (etc): Ray Brooks reports that Avery later continued the route "to the top" but I'm currently uncertain of the route direction and if "the top" refers to the prominent high point above the pitch 3 anchors or to the very top of the buttress where one could walk off down the Ascent/Descent Ramp (see climbing area map for details on the walk off route).
Pitch three might alternatively move out right of the dihedral and onto the heavily featured face.
Protection
Mixed cams and stoppers. There may be a piton or two in the lower part of pitch 2, but if they are still there you probably should plan on backing them up with stoppers.
The bottom part of the crack on pitch two is thin and it's tempting to run it out, rather than taking the time to find a placement in the thin crack. This can lead to some really dangerous factor two lead falls, possibly involving the leader hitting a ledge about 20 feet below the belay. Getting in some early pieces on this pitch is critical.



2 Comments