Gates of Hell
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C4
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 8 pitches|
|FA:||Pete Gallagher and John Catto October 29, 1986|
|Page Views:||513 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Kiessel on Dec 2, 2021|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Hard to rate something like this, we used the stick clip a lot to place cams, stoppers and lasso studs 10-15 feet out. C3?, C4? no idea.
Begin with 15 feet of unprotected 5.7, traverse left on easy C1 about 10 feet to a stance. Continue up until the crack completely seams out. Place gear far above you with a stick clip. Batman up to good placements and low angle rock. The crack eventually widens after some junk rock and then tapers back down with expanding rock panels on the left. Shed a tear as you pass a hammered flush Star drive, and continue up the expando corner to another stick clip cam placement. Eventually you can step right to a ledge with an anchor. 30 m. 5.8 C4
A finger crack leads to a wide pod up and left. From the top of the wide pod, stick clip the first of four Star drives up and right that lead to a bedding seam. Climb the crack over the roof and continue through the awkward flare eventually putting you on a sloping ledge with a single drilled pin. This pin can be backed up with gear for the anchor. 23m. C3
Climb 15 feet of rotten crack eventually reaching left to a finger sized crack. Take this until the crack seams out. Place a cam far above you with a stick clip. Continue up the crack on good gear to a Star drive. Move right onto the ledge with an anchor. 15m. C3
Climb C1 up a thin, left facing corner directly above the ledge. Continue until the crack dies just before a sloping ledge. Figure out how to get onto the ledge (stick clip gear placement/ free climb). From the ledge continue up the crack to an alcove. Belay here on gear. 30m. 5.8 C2+
Climb through awkward off-width bulges. Continue up the crack as it thins and eventually seams out. Place gear in a perfectly square pod to the right and up into rotten rock. Free climb up to the ridge and then to the right to a two drilled pin anchor. 20m. 5.9 C2+
Walk west along the north side to a boulder in a notch. Scramble up to the right side and build an anchor just below a bedding seam. 20m 4th
Crawl Southwest along the south side of the ridge eventually leading to another notch directly below the summit. Build an anchor in notch with wide cams. 10m 5.0
Climb to the summit with occasional gear. There’s a ring angle on the summit. 20 ft 5.8
- Reverse top 3 pitches.
- Double rope from from top of P5 to top of P3.
- Either rap 65m to the ground or 34m from top of P3 to top of P1 and then 30m to the ground. (P1 anchor is climbers left and not easy to get to. I used a stick clip to clip it and pull over.)
This route is on North side of the NE tower. The route starts on the east side of the wall. Just right of the prow.