5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Grant Burton, Greg Gavin, Shingo Ohkawa 2014|
|Page Views:||201 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Crag Turkey on Nov 28, 2021|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A fun climb to tag on if you came all the way up here. Follow the start crack in the alcove to its end then move more or less straight over a few drainages aiming for a right facing corner with some horizontal cracks. Work your way up the crack as the gear gets thinner and gritty then make the final crux move to the ledge at the top of the corner. Low angle terrain will take you up a drainage to a descent belay spot. Used a natural anchor to rappel. Use care in the rappel as I remember some concerning large blocks at the top that you wouldn't want to trundle given the proximity of the Green A.
Start right of mutually assured destruction in a little alcove where there is a low angle splitter to the right.