Maybe the best route on the wall? This savage route has pairs of holds perfectly spaced up a seam on an overhanging wall. Amazing.
Stick clip. Climb to undercling/sidepull jugs, then launch up the right-leaning seam. Sequential climbing leads to a crux rightwards to the arete, then a dyno to a good horizontal. Continue up the left side of the arete to a fixed anchor.
About 10' left of Kung-Fu Kegels below a right-leaning seam.
James Flamino
5.13a
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[Hide Comment] It is also possible to static the dyno. Get your right hand on the on the last crimp before the move. Then get a high left foot on the seam, lock off with your right arm, and reach high with your left hand to a horizontal slot just left of the good horizontal mentioned in the description.
Nov 3, 2022
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