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Compression Lesson

V5-6, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering > 02. Tier 1 Left Side…

Description

While this looks gabby at first glance, it climbed way better than I was expecting. The only real dab potential I found was swinging feet over for the exit move. Otherwise, it entirely avoids the boulder blocking it. Stylistically, it's a good one to do as preparation for Compression Session (V8 on tier 2). it climbs differently, but shares some elements. 

Start with a right hand on a sloper pinch and your left on the bottom of the obvious rail on the face. I used low feet. Make some right hand bumps and a heel hook, then get to the lip. Follow the lip left until you can swing your foot to the giant V with a foot in it, and press your way out to the jug. 

I'm unsure if this is V5 and I just had bad beta, or if it's more in the V6/6+ range. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciate.

As this is right on the trail I'm sure it's been done before, so if anyone has info please let me know. 

Location

500 feet up the trail from the kiosk at the start. Just past No Use For A Name and Marmalute.

Protection

A pad for the start, and a few on top of the boulder that's under the line.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking at the boulder from the trail. The yellow circles are the start hands, and the X is where I topped.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the boulder from the trail. The yellow circles are the start hands, and the X is where I topped.
The starting left. 10/10 rock quality.
[Hide Photo] The starting left. 10/10 rock quality.
A view from the side.
[Hide Photo] A view from the side.