Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan; 5/4/1979
Page Views: 236 total · 13/month
Shared By: James Barrow on Nov 23, 2021
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Also known as the "Weeping Wall Buttress", The Great Beyond offers comfortable belay ledges the whole way and amazing views. 

However come prepared, this climb offers the classic Zion adventurous flare.   The climb has seen very little traffic so much of the route still has soft rock and loose rock.  

The first 3 pitches starts up the route "Weeping Rock Chimneys, Left side" 

P1: 5.7; climb clean double hand cracks up to beginning of chimney.  

P2: 5.7;  squeeze chimney transitions into wide chimney with cracks of varying sizes.     One bolt in middle of route. 

P3: 5.8 OW; climb either the left offwidth or do short 10ft bouldery moves to single bolt on right wall.  After these short sections, stay to the right and wade through dead brambles on easy terrain to a 15ft offwidth. 

On the top of pitch 3.   Move belays about 100ft to the right to the beginning of pitch 4. 

P4: 5.8; start on short chimney with little offered protection into protectable low angle hand crack. 

P5: 5.6R;  traverse across delicate slab with two slightly runout bolts to steepening hand crack.   

P6: 5.9;  delicate crimping and pressing leads across 4 bolts into fists and hands.  Anchor either to nearby bushes or to rappel anchors very far to the right.   

P7: 5.9/5.10;  chimney moves onto slab.  Climb over awkward bulge passed shrubs to chains. 

P8: 5.9+;   awkward start leads into OW/ squeeze chimney.  Deceivingly burly pitch.  Anchor to tree atop of cliff.

Descent: rappel the route.  Double ropes can blend rappels to each even pitch.      Two 60m can do it but two 70m definitely recommended.  

Location

Route starts up "Weeping Rock Chimneys, Left side" which is located on the wall just left of the Weeping rock parking lot.   

Protection

Pro: Double of .3 - 5
Rack of nuts
2 60m ropes.

Photos