The Great Beyond
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan; 5/4/1979|
|Page Views:||236 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||James Barrow on Nov 23, 2021|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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Also known as the "Weeping Wall Buttress", The Great Beyond offers comfortable belay ledges the whole way and amazing views.
However come prepared, this climb offers the classic Zion adventurous flare. The climb has seen very little traffic so much of the route still has soft rock and loose rock.
The first 3 pitches starts up the route "Weeping Rock Chimneys, Left side"
P1: 5.7; climb clean double hand cracks up to beginning of chimney.
P2: 5.7; squeeze chimney transitions into wide chimney with cracks of varying sizes. One bolt in middle of route.
P3: 5.8 OW; climb either the left offwidth or do short 10ft bouldery moves to single bolt on right wall. After these short sections, stay to the right and wade through dead brambles on easy terrain to a 15ft offwidth.
On the top of pitch 3. Move belays about 100ft to the right to the beginning of pitch 4.
P4: 5.8; start on short chimney with little offered protection into protectable low angle hand crack.
P5: 5.6R; traverse across delicate slab with two slightly runout bolts to steepening hand crack.
P6: 5.9; delicate crimping and pressing leads across 4 bolts into fists and hands. Anchor either to nearby bushes or to rappel anchors very far to the right.
P7: 5.9/5.10; chimney moves onto slab. Climb over awkward bulge passed shrubs to chains.
P8: 5.9+; awkward start leads into OW/ squeeze chimney. Deceivingly burly pitch. Anchor to tree atop of cliff.
Descent: rappel the route. Double ropes can blend rappels to each even pitch. Two 60m can do it but two 70m definitely recommended.
Route starts up "Weeping Rock Chimneys, Left side" which is located on the wall just left of the Weeping rock parking lot.