Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches
FA: FKA: Holly Barnard and Connie Sciolino, Nov. 2021
Page Views: 155 total · 8/month
Shared By: Holly Barnard on Nov 23, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This route starts to the left (south) of South Ramp. We had intended to climb the South Ramp, but the face was fun, and I never felt the need to traverse over to other side of runnel/gully. As we climbed it, there are two sections of a couple of 5.5-5.6 moves with 4th Class to 5.fun runout sections in between.

P1. The first crux moves are shortly off the ground as you smear, stem, and layback up a shallow corner/overlap. I was able to protect this with a #2 Camalot relatively low and nut behind a mostly downward-facing red flake on the left before the most committing moves. I then stepped across onto the face to the right and climbed easy buckets up to a horizontal crack. I then headed mostly straight up the bucketed face to a very small pine tree on a very small ledge but a decent enough belay. I was able to build an anchor with a green Alien, a pink tri-cam, and the tiny tree.

P2. This has more fun buckets but is mostly unprotected. I headed to the left of a large pine tree above. I opted to go up and over ridge at the top of the face next to the pine tree instead of going into the gully to the right of the tree. Going up and over the ridge was the second crux, but this was well-protected with #1 Camalot. You drop over the edge and stem across to the face behind it. Turn a corner to the left, and then shoot up another easy ridge to a huge ledge with a large pine tree. One could exit left from here if they wanted to. We continued up the face, angling right until finishing in the gully near its top.

We walked off to the south from here.


We started about 30 feet left (south) of the start of the South Ramp. Start on red, semi-slick rock stemming in shallow corner until you are ready to pull onto the face.

The approach took us 1.5 hours from South Mesa Trailhead. We approached by hiking up the east side of the Matron then around the back of the Matron and traversed west to Lost and Found. It is probably much easier to go up the west side of the Matron.

GPS coordinates are: 39.94297, -105.29083.


A standard rack.