5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Scott Ayers et al.|
|Page Views:||355 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Nov 23, 2021|
|Admins:||adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
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For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
This great route is remarkable for its second and third pitches. Unfortunately the first pitch is a bit mungy and heady, and the final pitch(es) are a bit contrived, but it is still a fun "second tier" route up Rockfellow Dome and very worthwhile.
Begin just left of Jabberwocky at the big boulder near the base of the wall.
P1 (5.10, 150'): Stick clip the first bolt from the top of the boulder and do a difficult move stemming from the boulder (you may wish to downclimb a bit first) to the main wall. Crucial pro in a pocket leads to another bolt on a slightly runout and mossy slab. Above, follow the right side of a wide slot to a bolted belay.
P2 (5.11++, 100'): The money pitch. Do a difficult move to establish on the righthand wall and climb up and into a steep right-facing corner. This corner has excellent finger locks and liebacking which can be enjoyed without the tedium of gear-placing cruxes thanks to it being gratuitously bolted. This is a pumpy piece of climbing that leads to a desperate bolted face above and ultimately a bolted anchor in a recess. An awesome pitch that left me wondering what it would have been like had Stallone had left his bolt gun at home.
P3 (5.11, 100'): Bouldery moves lead over the bulge above the belay and onto a slab. Up this, continuing directly or escaping to the right, to easier terrain below a wild, hanging arete. A few long slings on bolts here may help with rope drag as you pull onto this arete and follow jugs upwards to a bolted belay at a stance just left of the incredible fourth pitch of Jabberwocky.
P4 (5.10+, 130'): Move into the Jabberwocky handcrack and follow that for a few body-lengths before stepping back left onto the slab. Follow the slab upwards to the bolted belay atop Jabberwocky. Not a bad pitch, but it leaves you scratching your head why anyone would depart the most perfect splitter on Rockfellow. Rap from here or...
P5 (5.10, 90'): Most summit Rockfellow Dome via the wild finish around the south side. There is an alternate way that is technically the last pitch of Cliffhanger. From the summit area do most of the normal finish (scramble down across a tree-filled depression, over some boulders, into a dark corridor, stem above the floor of this corridor to a little chamber with two boulders... but stop here). At the two boulders in the chamber, the normal finish continues back and up, but Cliffhanger climbs the chimney directly overhead at the entrance to the chamber: Look for a bolt just back the way you came. Chimneying leads to bolted anchor which is also the summit rap anchor.
N face of Rockfellow. Just left of Jabberwocky, right of the gully that the single-rope rap route comes down.