Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 22, 2021
Admins: adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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This is a fun but frightening climb up the crack and face just above and to the left of Karma Mechanic. It could serve as a "warm up" of sorts for that route. 

Continue your scrambling and spelunking up to the next crack above KM. The first pitch is an enjoyable wide crack that leads to a large belay alcove at 50'. Beewarned: The left side of this alcove is home to a perennial beehive (*). Belay here or link into the second pitch which follows a thinning crack up from the right side of the alcove followed by a committing crux stepping onto the upper face. From here cast off for about 40' to the first of three bolts on the upper slab. DFU. The next two are spaced by 15-20' and help you feel like your sanity has returning. This slab is initially difficult but eases as you go, though the graininess stays with you the whole way, and in total this pitch is about 150' in length.

The rap anchor is set up to allow rapping (200') back down the route, but with a single 60m rope you can rap "backwards" off the anchor down to the top of Karma Mechanic, then do another rap to the slab below that, and one final rap to the ground. All of these anchors are visible from the summit. All bolts on this route and on the summit could probably stand to be replaced at some point in the next decade.

(*)We climbed this route once during a snowstorm in March of 2021 and saw no signs of bees. Due to the cold, we linked it into one long pitch. We climbed this route again in November of 2021 on a balmy day and I saw some very mild bee activity. I decided to risk it and I scampered quickly up and across the alcove and into the second pitch without issue.

If you decide to link pitches for some reason (bees?), back clean the entirety of the first pitch or face crippling rope drag on the runout slab of the second pitch.


Just above and left of Karma Mechanic.


Single set of cams from 0.3 to #5 Camalot. No stoppers needed.


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