[Hide Comment] Don't be scared off by the grade; partner and I both found this to be much easier than both Orchard Pest and Slice of Spice. Though the goods are short, it's still a fun route.

I mistakenly thought that the mention of belay ledge in the guidebook description meant that there would be something to actually belay off of (no bolts and terrible gear choices). I ended up using a bolt on heath ledger to build an adequate anchor to bring the second up thinking that the name was implying heinous rope drag and wanting my belayer to see me in the hard section. If this is meant to be done in 2 pitches, a bolted anchor on the belay ledge would be ideal. If I were to do it again, I would climb it in one pitch and place minimal pro in the wide section. It is a little heady getting to the first piece of gear in the corner but imo there's nothing harder than 5.7 until you are in the corner proper. You could also clip a bolt on H.L. before moving into the corner to take the sting out.

The crux could easily be top roped after climbing Heath Ledger and placing a few directionals for those aspiring crack climbers. Alternatively, the grungy wide section could be skipped by climbing the first half of HL and stepping into the corner; this would make for a more sustained and better protected climb without any mid belay shenanigans Nov 21, 2021