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East Face Direct(Toffey’s Turnabout)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
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Routes in Unicorn Peak
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East Face Direct(Toffey’s Turnabout) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unicorn Peak Normal Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Michael Toffey October 04, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 352 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Toffey on Nov 18, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
From the notch on the ridge that begins the regular 4th class route, walk north across the base of the East Face to a prominent dihedral lieback. Climb this to its very end and then traverse right(north) to a nice hand crack up a flake. Climb a series of flakes and cracks almost straight up from here but trending slightly left/south and top out at new rap station(October 2021) about 10 feet southeast of the highpoint. Topo available in photos. Link to video of the climb here.
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