Type: Trad, 66 ft (20 m), 2 pitches
FA: FA David Smart, FFA Peter Reilly
Page Views: 213 total · 11/month
Shared By: Neil Abe on Nov 16, 2021
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route

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Climb the first pitch of 5.8 Stairway to Heaven. At the anchors, instead of going up and right (2nd pitch of Stairway to Heaven) go left towards the slight overhang that follows into the thin crack to the top. It is a thin diagonal traverse with good feet leading to the roof. Lay back onto the small ledge on the left side of the small roof, then smear and lay back the thin seam to progress higher into the crack. The uneven crackling has some good handjams in some spots, and some very thin laybacking in others. Fantastic Route to a 2 bolt anchor. Can 5.4 scramble for another 15 meters (50 feet) to the top (look for tat with carabiners on 2x trees for anchoring/repelling).


Must climb the first pitch of 5.8 Stairway to Heaven to approach 5.11b Finger Stinger.


Small cams in multiples up to .75. Can use a #2 under roof, but needs extension, or plug smaller gear along the continuous vertical crack instead (just back it up). 2 bolt anchor at the top.