All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Bancroft Eagle's Nest

Finger Stinger

Name: Finger Stinger
Rating: 4.0

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Bancroft Eagle's Nest

L › R R › L A › Z

	Agony of De-feet, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Aria's Orange Slushy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dude, I Think She is the King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Father and Son S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Father's Day Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Finger Stinger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Migizi Wazoson S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Perspective T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Swiftly Tilting Planet, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 66 ft (20 m), 2 pitches
FA:	FA David Smart, FFA Peter Reilly
Page Views:	213 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Neil Abe on Nov 16, 2021
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climb the first pitch of 5.8 Stairway to Heaven. At the anchors, instead of going up and right (2nd pitch of Stairway to Heaven) go left towards the slight overhang that follows into the thin crack to the top. It is a thin diagonal traverse with good feet leading to the roof. Lay back onto the small ledge on the left side of the small roof, then smear and lay back the thin seam to progress higher into the crack. The uneven crackling has some good handjams in some spots, and some very thin laybacking in others. Fantastic Route to a 2 bolt anchor. Can 5.4 scramble for another 15 meters (50 feet) to the top (look for tat with carabiners on 2x trees for anchoring/repelling).

Location

Must climb the first pitch of 5.8 Stairway to Heaven to approach 5.11b Finger Stinger.

Protection

Small cams in multiples up to .75. Can use a #2 under roof, but needs extension, or plug smaller gear along the continuous vertical crack instead (just back it up). 2 bolt anchor at the top.