Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: Eric Ostrander / Sam Tingy
Page Views: 260 total · 14/month
Shared By: Scott Stoddard on Nov 14, 2021
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


A really fun line developed by Eric Ostrander and Sam Tingy in the early 2000s.

Start sitting in the narrow pit on the right side of the boulder with left hand on a good sundercling and right on a an in cut edge.

Use some juice to pull onto the boulder and reach right for the arete. After that the hardest moves are over and you can enjoy a long, fun and occasionally tricky jug fest up the arete to the left, topping out at the top just left of the giant flake.

Exit at the crack half way up the arete is easier, but still a soft V4 with that pull on.


N face of the 2nd big boulder in the junkies, just uphill from Junkie Arete


Pads, pads, lots of pads and spotters ~8-12 pads