Southeast Ridge

While this route doesn't climb the SE ridge the entire length, Southeast Ridge still seemed to be the best name for it. We started on the east face about 50 feet north (climber's right) from the south end of the east face on slight raised, flat area. The rock is dirty, but the majority of it is sound. Protection options increase with each pitch, but that isn't saying much. I didn't think this route was as bad/poor quality rock as others have made The Hourglass out to be, but I won't be recommending it as a must do to anyone. A leader must be super-comfortable at the grade and be willing to have a 100 foot runout.

P1. Hop the lichen-rich face just below a wide crack/gash that angle up and left with several small to mid-size trees growing in it. Climb up and left aiming for tree belay on the south edge of the face that also corresponds with the narrow "waist" of the rock giving it its hourglass shape, 170 feet. Pro = slinging a small tree at 100 feet off the deck, and it looked like a #3 Camalot placement would be possible in the back of an angling crack just few feet above the slung tree. Otherwise there was no other pro.

P2. Climb a low angle crack just right of some thin flakes for about 30 feet or so before heading up the face shooting for another tree belay. Protection is sparse, but my partner found three placements for small cam/nuts, 180 feet.

P3. Angle up and right along blocky terrain to a large tree that can be slung. After doing a little battle with the branches, go straight up to the summit. This pitch had the most friable rock on it, but it was also easily avoided.

Start on the east face about 50 feet north (climber's right) from the south end of the east face on slight raised, flat area.

A light Flatirons rack up to #3 Camalot and a couple double+ length slings for the tree anchors.