PRINT: Rock Climb Mind Your Bulging Codpiece, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Mind Your Bulging Codpiece

5.11+ R, Trad, 165 ft (50 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: (it is a link-up of Mind Over Matter and Bulging Codpiece)
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is the Spice Tour of Rincon. Link Mind Over Matter into Bulging Codpiece in one mega, 48 meter pitch of sustained, runout, and technical climbing. This is a master class in how to climb in Eldo. It has everything that is intimidating about our beloved canyon; groundfall potential, thin and devious crimping, micro gear, funky overhanging climbing on heads up rock, and then a glorious and sustained runout voyage on beautiful featured slabs where falling is not a good options.

An onsight of this link-up would be a proud feat of mental and technical ability. I'm almost positive no one has done it yet. The gauntlet is laid down....

Location

Start on Mind Over Matter, between the first pitch of Rincon and the Five-Ten Crack, then keep climbing straight up into Bulging Codpiece, and finish on the second pitch anchors of Rincon .

A 100 meter ropes gets you down. With a 70 meter rope, belay at the second pitch anchors of Rincon, and then do a double rap down.

Protection

A whole rack of RPs, nuts to large (no pun intended), and a single rack of cams. Place it all well, and it will be fine. Make some mistakes, and it will get serious fast.