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Ghost Buddy

5.12a, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Rob Sullivan, Jeff Sqire
Massachusetts > Western MA > Hanging Mountain > Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall
Warning Access Issue: Endangered Species DetailsDrop down

Description

Ghost Buddy is an excellent trip up the Squirrel Wall that brings you to a spectacular position atop the cliff.

Pitch 1 (5.9) starts with a bolt at the base of a left-leaning crack on the right side of the wall that is often wet. Stickclip the bolt, and pull up to a short, leftward traverse to the base of the crack. A few moves get you to another bolt protecting the final slab move to the top. Mantel the ledge, and then walk back to anchors on the next wall. This is spicy when wet! You can also climb It Takes an Ankle or Radiant Sky as an alternative.

Pitch 2 (5.10) climbs the crack in the dihedral to its top then starts clipping bolts up some bizarre features to get to a tricky move guarding the mantel to the belay ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.12a) heads up and right from the belay on some easy moves protected by gear to get to the base of a thin seam/finger crack with a couple bolts just out of reach. Throw a cam as high as you can in the crack, then burl and finesse your way up past the hard to clip bolts to small ledge just to the left of an insane looking, overhanging arete with a few bolts protecting it. Step right to gain the arete, and pop up into a little hueco below the roof. Crank hard for a few more mind bogglingly exposed moves (that you never thought you'd find in Massachusetts) to take in the view while you clip the chains.

It's probably best to lower to you partner instead of topping out or belaying from the anchor of pitch 3.

Location

It is the second route from the right on the Squirrel Wall.

Protection

A single-ish rack and a bunch of draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view of the Upper Squirrel Wall from the parking lot.
[Hide Photo] A view of the Upper Squirrel Wall from the parking lot.
Looking down from the top at very sick features.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top at very sick features.
The top pitch is 11d. Awesome exposure. Multiple cruxes and sustained 11 sequences at the top. Erik Phillips on lead.
[Hide Photo] The top pitch is 11d. Awesome exposure. Multiple cruxes and sustained 11 sequences at the top. Erik Phillips on lead.
Squirrel face!
[Hide Photo] Squirrel face!