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Gneiss Bulge

5.11b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 32 votes
FA: Shawn Sweeney, Spring 2020
Massachusetts > Western MA > Hanging Mountain > Progressive Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Endangered Species DetailsDrop down

Description

Gneiss Bulge is a well-protected slab/face climb that is pretty on you right off the ground. Work up on crimps through a delicate roof with a cool sidepull hole; shake here, and work through some more crimps and smears for a good, flat, little ledge. Wrestle your way up the gneiss bulge, and mantel on top of it; a good rest here lets you ponder the finish sequence through more crimpers 'n' smears. The climb gets some decent morning to late afternoon sun.

The anchors were originally for the 5.8 on the left, and this route seemed pretty decent after a clean and some topropes, so I figured it was worth the hardware even though the route spacing is a bit close.

I named the route for the obvious bulge 2/3 the way up before knowing the name of the wall or any of the route names on the wall... so even though it's not the most progressive, I hope you have a giggle and enjoy the climb!

Location

Go up the stairs on the right side of the Progressive Wall to the right of the two 5.8s.

Be super mindful of sensitive plants!

Protection

6 quickdraws to reach quick-links at the top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gneiss Bulge.
[Hide Photo] Gneiss Bulge.
I'm very short. The route I've drawn may be different for taller climbers at the small roof section.
[Hide Photo] I'm very short. The route I've drawn may be different for taller climbers at the small roof section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is stellar! A hard crux for the grade at the second bolt, followed by nice movement to the top. Too bad it's usually wet up top. This route takes days to dry after rain. If it's dry though, it's the best one one in this area. Nov 26, 2021
Harry Beauregard
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Fell while trying to clip the 3rd bolt and came a couple feet from decking. My bad, as I saw it was a little wet from the ground. Due to the runoff from above, even when dry it can be a bit dirty. Dec 6, 2021
Ian C
MA
 
[Hide Comment] The lower roof looks intimidating, but I found the crux to be higher up, trying to surmount/mantel the bulge that protrudes from the face. My tall partner (6'5") was able to do a dynamic mantel straight up. I had to use some different footwork out left to make the mantel more secure before I could reach for the next crimps. Nov 5, 2023
[Hide Comment] The left crimp above the seam above the 2nd bolt seems to be flexing a bit. It is best to pull gently. Apr 16, 2025