Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 795 total · 18/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Oct 17, 2021
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Mega spray down! Suggest change

A nice little outing with some great climbing and position up high. Climb this in the morning, Seeing Stars for lunch and Heart and Soul on the afternoon for a mega day. 

P1- 5.10+ Climb the twin crack stem box until you have to commit right into hands to fist crack. From a ledge with a bolt dwindling hands leads to a traverse right to the belay. This pitch is pretty fun but features eternal sandyness due to jungle environs. Can leave 1x #2, 3x #3. 1x#4 at this belay. 

P2- 5.12- Lurch into the chimney and grunt to a pillar rest. Traverse right past a few bolts into the podded seam and battle pump until a sloping stance on the left is reached. Juggy climbing to a mantle on a small ledge. 

The follower can leave the #6 in the chimney for retrieval upon rappel. Runner every piece at the start of pitch 2. Only need 1x#5 stopper, 1x 1C3, .4- #1 all draws and a few runners for the last pitch. 

P3 5.12- Slap up the leaning offset to a tips pod with no feet. A horizontal leads left to another seam and a tough mantle. Move right under the roof to a easier topout and a perfect ledge with great view.

Rap route with a 70m rope. Flick the rope when rapping P2 so it doesnt fall into the chimney piller.

Crux beta

So easy to find! Suggest change

Hike to Sterling Pass, 30 seconds West of the pass look up and see the route. 30 second bushwack to the base.  North facing. 

Super sewn up! Suggest change

Stoppers #4-9, 1x 0C3, 2x1C3 - #2, 3x #3, 1x #4, 1x#6. 7 draws 4runners. 70m rope.  
This is an updated rack based on B. Gilmore’s input, so you should be ok.

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