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Routes in 6. The Lower East Side
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Ain’t no Wade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Avenue of the Immigrants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bacon Egg and Cheese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bowery Boys, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brooklyn Bridge Bends, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Done with the City S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Finger Locks and Bagels T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Funkytown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inside Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Katz Direct Finish T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Katz's Deli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mighty T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MTA T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ratu Ratu T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Tribeca T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twinkle Toes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Melissa Utomo |
| Page Views: | 964 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Melissa Utomo on Oct 14, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
There are multiple ways to start this climb:
The 'Inside' version of the climb begins at the inside of the giant flake left of the bolts. Lieback your way up while smearing your feet on the inside wall.
The 'Outside' version of the climb starts out right of the bolts on the face. This will require some slab technique. Using the edge of the flake with your left hand makes the face climbing more approachable.
Both of the ‘Outside’ and ‘Inside’ starts join at bolt 6. When the flake squeezes out at the roof, clip the 7th bolt as you move right to a well-protected crux. Getting over the tricky roof will require finding “good-enough” holds around the roof and trusting your feet.
Route Location and Indigenous Resources
On the extreme right end of Dines/Lower East Side, this route is best located by the giant flake that pinches into a small roof at the top. This was generously bolted, and with a convenient tall rock, your belayer can recline on (if it’s a safe belay).
This sport route was designed on the land of the Ute and Cheyenne people. For this route, funds were sent to Spirit of the Sun, a local Native American non-profit working in urban areas and on reservations to boost the resilience of Native people, especially youth and young adults.
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