Mountain Project Logo

Teen Town

5.10- X, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: David Kozak and Steve Kolarik, 1985
Colorado > Durango > E Animas > I. Watch Crystal

Description

Steve and I originally did this route without any fixed gear (the rating reflects the original state of the ascent). It was done prior to Lucky Time Piece (aka Primate Highway), and so today it benefits from the bolt on the rightward traverse out of the first part of the Simians to the Sun crack system. In other words, it heads toward Kong. I broke the drill bit (which I tied off for pro) and then in desperation moved leftward along a rail to the Simian's hanging belay. It was a X lead at the time with a challenging series of moves along the rail. I named the route after the Heavy Weather (fusion jazz) song.  It most likely hasn't seen a second ascent.

Location

Start on Simian's/Watch Crystal Crack and after about 30 or so feet head right as if going to Kong, then aim for the broken drill bit and, then head left to the Simian's hanging belay.

Protection

The runout at the traverse would currently be at least an R rated excursion.