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Routes in Hen's Nest
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Astro Flex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Close to the Edge (CLOSED) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Masters of the Universe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mindy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starship Trooper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sultans of Stem (CLOSED) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrong Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Compton, Chuck Kifer 1972 |
| Page Views: | 389 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Wilkinson on Oct 3, 2021 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Access Issue: Endangered species
Details
Description
Chimney climb to an amazing summit, but don't let the moderate grade fool you– this is a route with some serious runout sections up high and if you can't work with dirty rock and loose blocks, this isn't for you.
How we did it:
P1 - step back into the chimney and locate the obvious splitter finger crack on your left. Plug finger sizes for 35-40ft then stem and chimney a bit up to the chockstones. I stayed on the outside and ended up mantling on a ledge and setting a gear belay here, with a #1 and #3 in iron pockets.
P2 - step up off the blocks and launch upward, protecting in dirty horizontals, loose flakes, and even a small tree- extend this a lot to have less drag. Gain the dirty ledge with the small tree and stare deep into the chimney, wondering how you can protect it. There's an obvious .5 placement, get that and head deeper and higher. Expect about a 30' runout to your next protection, at which point you're almost on top. Belay from a tree.
Descent - I've read that there's a walk off//scramble down the other side, but I've ever done it. We hiked about 75-100ft along the cliff back in the direction of Masters, Lunatic, etc. and rapped off a tree, to a small ledge with a small tree big enough to hold us for a second rap. Ended up at the base of Astro Flex after 2 raps.
Gear: No big cams needed, doubles in finger sizes and single rack up to a BD 4. Plenty of runners and some stoppers can be helpful, as well as a .1 and .2. Take a headlamp if it's getting late.
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