Lucid Dream
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 530 ft (161 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 50.84911, -121.70679 |
| FA: | Mel Ryeo & Mike Mason |
| Page Views: | 1,101 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Mason on Oct 2, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
Description
Lucid Dream is host to some varied climbing styles(slab, a boulder problem, technical face) with the first three pitches being the best. Pitches 4 and 5 are obligatory terrain to get to the final and pleasant 6th pitch that ends on the perfect size ledge to bring your second up and enjoy a well earned view! The 2nd pitch has the hardest moves but the 3rd pitch is the most sustained and is generously bolted(14 bolts) to keep the stress level in check.
Note: Although this route is all modern bolts in modern style and very safe, it is not a sport climb. Limestone is known for being loose in places, and although great effort was taken to clean this route extensively, loose rock may still be present.
P1: 10c, 9 bolts Start in the deep corner that splits the lower wall and climb up and left out of the corner following a featured slab to a mantle crux. Tip toe a couple more meters to a semi hanging belay - 27 m
P2: 11d, 9 bolts Continue up the slab passing bolts, hollow flakes and good rest stances to where the angle steepens and the holds disappear. Faith, power, and some fancy footwork will allow passage past the powerful crux to a bolt and if you have good balance...a decent rest. Past the crux holds reappear and lead the way to a nice belay ledge. Send the boulderer up this one - 27 m
P3: 12a, 13 bolts The gem of the route. All the tricks in the bag will come in handy on this one. Climb up and left from the anchor and follow the bolts past pinches, cracks, gastons, under clings, crimps, slopers and side pulls to get through the lower crux to a rest midway on the pitch. Trend right and be ready use your reserve energy for the second crux. Pull the final moves and move right to the belay and take a breath! Bring a couple runners - 29 m
P4: 5.6, 5 bolts Climb up between a bulge and a large boulder(slightly high first bolt). Continue up a nice grey slab and trend gently left to an anchor. Spacious bolting on this pitch due to the natural weakness this pitch crosses. If the weakness has been previously climbed the intent was to not change the nature of a potentially previously unreported route...an increasingly likely issue- 28 m
P5: 5.9, 9 bolts Start up the steep airy vertical wall where the angle quickly eases to nice slab climbing trending left to a ledge/rest. From the ledge start up once again searching for high feet and solid hand holds. Step right below an overlap to the belay. Kind of a scruffy second half. 30 m
P6: 10b, 9 bolts From the belay step up and left over the overlap. Once established on the slab, climb straight up to a fun, steep corner. Funky moves that end up being a great way to end this adventure! 26 m
Descent: Rappel the route with a 60 m rope. Watch your ropes ends! Rappel straight down from the 5th pitch instead of the climbing line(plumb)
You can also hike off (climbers left) from the treed terrace above the route. Not recommended unless you know the walk off already as it is complex with 4th class and some low 5th class terrain.



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