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The Juice Shop

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 72 votes
FA: Jim Thornburg, 2020
California > San Francisco B… > Marin/Northwest… > Mickey's Beach > Vent 5 (aka "Ch… > Juice Shop

Description

Start in a hollow down on the right side of the wall. Make awkward moves to mantle up and out of this hollow onto an easy slab. Keep climbing to the upper face and pull crimps to the top. Mantle the slab and clip the shared anchor with Eddie's Trundling Service.

The crimps at the top used to be really good, but have disintegrated over time. There's a reason this place is called "Choss 5".

Location

Look for a flat, slightly overhanging triangular face on the right side of the crag.

Protection

5 bolts to rams horns

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The best line on this wall -- The Juice Shop!
[Hide Photo] The best line on this wall -- The Juice Shop!
Nick preparing for the move to the jug on Juice Shop
[Hide Photo] Nick preparing for the move to the jug on Juice Shop

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Connor Dobson
Louisville, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Not sure if I just suck but this would probably be a sandbag at 11b (at least compared to other routes in the area). The slab is a bit more runout compared to the bolting in the rest of the area but is very casual. Oct 3, 2021
Cameron Cutting
San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] 2 Distinct Cruxes, second is harder than the first but not that bad. The holds set the grade more than the movement. Oct 5, 2021
Chris B
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] @Connor, I'd respectfully disagree. The 3-4 moves at the top of this climb nowhere near as hard as the start of Egghead, which is probably the benchmark 11b for the area. Oct 12, 2021
Thibault Charbonnier
Marin County, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Favorite line on this wall: lower lip has great holds/movements; crux on bomb crimps, a couple tricky moves up into a jug. Feet placement was key for me (is it ever not?)... Fun, pure movement, although still easier than Egghead indeed. Dec 6, 2021
Gary Anderson
San Diego
 
[Hide Comment] I think this is 11c if done static from the crimps and 11b if done more dynamic to the small ledge. I kept slipping off the crimps trying to do it slow and static. Might be a true 11c now, as I pre-brushed the crux and a small piece from the crimp came off. I am not sure where it came from but did seem harder than a few weeks prior from my last attempt. Mar 27, 2022
Undocked Piggies
People's Republic of West M…
 
[Hide Comment] Feels as hard as Astroman. May 25, 2022
R Rod
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] They’re described as “phenomenal crimps” up above, but I think they’ve disintegrated into no more. Jun 19, 2023
Lissa R
California
[Hide Comment] First few crimps are awesome, the rest are feeling like tiny slopey rails. The shit sidepull is particularly frustrating. Dec 27, 2023
Jordy Morgan
[Hide Comment] Feels as hard as Tales of Chowder Jan 22, 2024
Jim Thornburg
Berkeley, CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] A key crimp on the left broke, but if you go a bit right, the difficuly feels about the same as it used to? Oct 20, 2024