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Fridge Wrestling
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Far Far Left Wall
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Beers With Birgit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clandestine Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Classified S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fridge Wrestling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucid Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sneaky Pete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Marmot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sugar Marmot Var. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 575 ft (174 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 50.84911, -121.70679 |
| FA: | Garry Brace & Mike Mason - April 2021 |
| Page Views: | 678 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Mason on Sep 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Overnight Parking/Camping
Details
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
Description
P1: 10a- Pad gently up the slab clipping bolts until confronted with the last third of the pitch where the angle of the rock abruptly gets much steeper. Mostly bolts with a .4 C4 cam or equivalent at the top of the pitch as a directional for the second- 34 m
P2: 10a ish. If you don’t find “the beta” getting established on the vertical wall it will feel harder. The difficulties ease as one ascends towards the anchor. A bit scruffy near the top from pine needles. Bolts and a couple nuts and cams up to 2” -26 m
P3: THE PITCH 10c
Take care on this one, the grade and number of bolts betrays the seriousness of this pitch. Proficient gear placement skills recommended - gear to 4”
Get a nice nut placed standing on the boulder and get established in the corner. Stemming, jamming and looking for some face holds will be useful. Wrestle the fridge to gain the crux. Careful gear placement on this pitch! Trend left at the top of the pitch to a nice belay ledge.
6 bolts + gear- 30m Really fun!
P4: 5.9 Climb up and right from the anchor. Figure out the first puzzle and then get ready to pull a fun overlap! A touch loose in spots higher up on the pitch. Bolts and gear to 2”- 30 m
P5: 5.6 -Ramble up a low angle slab. Bolts and a small piece or two at the start, nuts- 30m
P6: 10a Go left up a corner and weave back right and then straight up the slab, nice pitch. Gear to 1” and bolts -25 m
Descent:
Rappel the route. It can be rappelled with a 60m rope, but the first pitch requires an intermediate rap. Could be used on the way up, but no point in stopping. A 70m would reach all the way.
Note: You can also hike off (climbers left) from the treed terrace above the route. Not recommended unless you know the walk off already as it is complex with 4th class and some low 5th class terrain.
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