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Cold and Ugly

5.9, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.7 from 21 votes
FA: Jason, Bennett, and Brian
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Wildcat Complex > Music Mountain

Description

There is a small belay ledge at the base. All pitches are sport and can be done with a single 70m rope and 14 draws plus anchor. There is an optional 4th pitch (Red, Red Wine) at the the top that will get you to the peak of the mountain, or you can scramble to the right to the top of the rightmost peak.

P1 - 5.9. This has fairly slabby feel and solid rock once you're off the ground and is a good warm-up.

P2 - 5.9 (I think?). There is some nice crack climbing to a great offwidth to a fun flared stem. You get a fantastic view from on top of P2.

P3 - 5.7. Get a nice, quick burn from here to the top.

P4 - 5.9. Optional 4th pitch - Red Red Wine. When you've topped out, look climber's left, and traverse over maybe 50 feet to the base. It is smooth sailing up this pitch. You get a great view and an amazing lunch ledge at the top that will accommodate multiple people.

You can rap off this with a single 70m or walk off to the climber's left on top of Red, Red Wine. The walk-off is steep but very do-able. Some route finding is involved required to get back to the main trail once you're at the base of the mountain....

Location

Follow the Music Mountain page to reach the Center Peak base with GPS coordinates 38.782164, -108.661910. To the climber's right of the center peak, look at the obvious face with a left-facing offwidth approximately 250 feet off the deck.

Protection

A 70m rope, a quad anchor, and 14 quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the start of the climb.
[Hide Photo] From the start of the climb.
Looking at the whole of Music Mountain, all three peaks.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the whole of Music Mountain, all three peaks.
Coming out of the P2 offwidth.
[Hide Photo] Coming out of the P2 offwidth.
A view from the base on a winter approach.
[Hide Photo] A view from the base on a winter approach.
Looking at the large ledge on top of Red, Red Wine from on top of P3 at Cold and Ugly.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the large ledge on top of Red, Red Wine from on top of P3 at Cold and Ugly.
Looking up the offwidth on P2.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the offwidth on P2.
Looking at the route and all 3 peaks of the mountain from Wildcat One.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the route and all 3 peaks of the mountain from Wildcat One.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chris bursey
GJ, CO
[Hide Comment] This thing looks awesome, man! Stoked to get on it! Sep 23, 2021
J Premo
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks, brother! It's a fun romp. Its still a bit dirty in some places but cleaning up really nice every time it's climbed. Holler at me when you're headed out, and I'll show you around the mountain :) Sep 25, 2021
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Consider adding a second quicklink or rap rings to each of the rappel bolts. Current setup is very kink inducing for the rope. The climbing is very engaging, especially the second pitch. For aspiring developers I would encourage the use of natural protection where available. This is a very good route as it stands, but would have been a great route as a mixed line with bolts only where needed. Jun 4, 2022
Jenny Talia
 
[Hide Comment] We climbed this the other day. It's good, but I understand other people's frustration/disdain for bolting something that could be naturally protected. I think the key here is if you are going to fully bolt something to make it a "sport climb", you should also trundle and clean the route appropriately. The character changes halfway through the 3rd pitch from fun climbing to choss wrangling and block weaving. Probably should have either stopped before entering the choss or done significant cleaning/trundling. Finally, the 3rd pitch anchor should be moved lower, it's currently placed in what seems to be a well anchored refrigerator block but a block nonetheless. Oct 5, 2024
David T
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Additional quicklinks have been added. They're giant and stainless. Still, I would try rapping from the top of Riders on the Storm next time, which you can reach by scrambling up and right from the top of P3, because the P3 traverse is likely to get your rope stuck when pulling. Ours did in fact get stuck.

The route is much less dirty at this point, but the ledge at the top of P2 is covered in gravel that you will rain down on your follower while they're struggling through the offwidth. Resist belaying from the ledge, and instead do a hanging belay over the crack.

If you're climbing to the top of a rocky ridge, you should expect to navigate some choss. Just because there are bolts doesn't mean it's single pitch crag experience, and some of us find block weaving fun. The scramble from the top of P3 to the right peak is in line with every other ridge climb I've done - far from the worst - and I don't think any trundling is required right now. Prepare to put yourself on a 15ft clove before untying if the slope feels marginal to you. The scramble rewards with a great view.

Could this have gone without bolts? Yes. As is, the bolted nature makes it a friendly intro to "alpine" style for beginners in the area. Controversy aside, this is a great climb, and I'm glad it's here. Jul 15, 2025