Type: TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 338 total · 13/month
Shared By: Doug Fletcher on Sep 9, 2021
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Coming soon to the onX Backcountry Mobile apps. For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Climb the middle face of a slab with thin edges which leads onto a flat ledge. From here, make your way to the crack to the right of the arete. Though the crack starts thin, it flares open enough for full hands or an arm. Work the face or the arete for some variation, either option is still at the same grade. Fairly sustained at the grade with a variety of climbing styles.

The anchors here appeared thanks to some mysterious benefactor in the Covid Summer of 2020. Previously, a lot of dead tree brush existed here. Despite attempts, the bolter has not been identified since and still owes it a name.

Location Suggest change

From Flakey Old Man, look just left for a small outcropping of rocks jutting out. You can step down from the top onto a rocky ledge. This ledge holds 3 sets of chain anchors right below the lip, on the face of the climbs, making for left, middle and right anchors. The left set will work best for this route. You can rap down to a flat lower ledge if you just want to complete just the crack portion and rap further down the slab to complete the entire route.

Alternatively, you can use the Eastward downclimb to get to the base, then keep walking past EZ Corner and around the corner to get to the base of the climb. There is a sketchy gap around that corner if you are going to take this route!

Protection Suggest change

Anchors with rap rings. From the top, the leftmost ones work well