Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dakota Millard, Savana Dumler, Gabe Kahn. 08/31/2021
Page Views: 434 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dakota Millard on Sep 1, 2021
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description Suggest change

After climbing this route there was no evidence of a previous assent, there was no information we found regarding these cracks in a guide book. If you know of a previous assent or any history chime in, otherwise here's how the story goes:

Located about 100 yards climbers right of S.S Maywood, in the next obvious left facing corner. There is a good photo of the area on pg. 149 of Orenczak's 3rd edition "The Voo" guide book

P1: Climbs a tight corner with a crack that widens to a ledge, gear belay on the right side of the ledge at the base of the obvious corner. Takes mostly hand sized pieces, a #4 was used to protect the move to the ledge. (40-50')

P2: Climbs the left facing corner via a finger crack that steepens the further you get. Stoppers worked well down low to save small gear for the steeper part of this pitch, 0.2 and 0.3 X4's protected the crux well. (45ish feet)

Descent: rap from anchors at the top of P2 (about 100' to the ground) or walk off to the climber's right. Pull your ropes as far left as possible to avoid rope snags in gully. It is also possible to rap to the belay ledge atop P1 and walk to the climber's right to rap from P1 anchors of Lime Streak Day Dream if you are concerned about rope snag.

This route was established ground up onsite in 2 pitches, and the anchors were drilled by hand.

Location Suggest change

This is the next left facing corner climbers right of S.S Maywood and the best approach is for S.S Maywood and continuing climbers right of the formation on the trail until it is possible to walk towards the cliff after passing "What the French Girl Said". My best guess is that this area is about 100 yards climbers right of S.S Maywood.

This route begins 50 feet left of Orenczak's "Lime Streaks Daydream" (an aid route that follows right angling seams through lime green lichen), and right of "What the French Girl Said". The second pitch corner is visible from the arete of Missing Tooth.

This area is well documented on pg. 149 of Orenczak's 3rd edition "The Voo" guide book.

Area not accessible from Missing Tooth area 

Protection Suggest change

standard rack from 0.2- #4, and stoppers

Photos

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