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Helmet Head

5.8 R, Trad, Alpine, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: FFA: Shannon Muenchow; FMA: Logan Rice
Montana > Southwest Region > Bozeman Area > Big Sky Area > Sphinx & Helmet Area

Description

Pitch 1 (110', 5.8 R): 

Have the belayer stand uphill and right of the crack as to avoid falling choss. Climb up easy but loose terrain to the start of the crack and first placements. Continue up the crack with good but runout protection on loose rocks to a small roof. Pull the roof on good but potentially loose jugs (depending which jugs you choose). Once past the roof, continue to work your way up the disappearing crack until you get to a nice, large ledge leading to the stemmy corner at the start of pitch 2. The more you can stem on this pitch, the better. And make sure to test holds before you yank on them; tread lightly. Build your anchor in a nice, uniform diagonal crack. Save at least one 0.5 for this anchor as it is bomber.

Pitch 2 (110', 5.7+ PG13)

Cross the slab ledge into the corner system starting pitch 2 up to the huge roof with big, white blocks under it. Be careful not to yank on the white blocks - we had a big one let loose. Work up alongside the roof crack on fun, face slab movement. Pull the slab onto a ledge (crux), and the most difficult climbing is over. Enjoy an easy 5.4 slab romp with minimal protection up to the ledge sitting left of the prominent feature. Movement becomes more vertical closer to the ledge, but the holds get better and there is more opportunity for protection. There is another good diagonal crack up on the ledge which can take a bomber 0.75 for the anchor.

Walk up the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 and top out onto the grassy, steep hillside of the Helmet. You can hike up the Helmet to its prominent point facing the Sphinx if you'd like. When we went, there was a bunch of flying ants having an orgy. 

Hike down from the helmet until you find a hole in the cliffside which is easy to crawl through and hike out of. The hole is a few minutes downhill from the slabby section of rock you have to go over on your way down the helmet feature.

Location

From the saddle, hike left up the steep hill to the base of the helmet. Find the crack to the left of the prominent ramp which is about 250-300' downhill of the helmet feature's arete.

Protection

Single rack from 0.3 - 4. Bring doubles of 0.5-1. Single rack of nuts, too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Closer overview of route with belays marked.
[Hide Photo] Closer overview of route with belays marked.
The Helmet Head feature. Route is near ramp system above tree on the saddle.
[Hide Photo] The Helmet Head feature. Route is near ramp system above tree on the saddle.
The Helmet feature at night during a smoky sunset
[Hide Photo] The Helmet feature at night during a smoky sunset
Hole in the rock for the descent. Hans S going down through.
[Hide Photo] Hole in the rock for the descent. Hans S going down through.
Picture of the class 2/3 hike up the Helmet which highlights where the hole in the cliff side is (descent beta)
[Hide Photo] Picture of the class 2/3 hike up the Helmet which highlights where the hole in the cliff side is (descent beta)
Logan R belaying Shannon M up the easier portion of pitch 2 with anchor spot shown.
[Hide Photo] Logan R belaying Shannon M up the easier portion of pitch 2 with anchor spot shown.
View up pitch 2 from the pitch 1 belay spot.
[Hide Photo] View up pitch 2 from the pitch 1 belay spot.