Helmet Head

Pitch 1 (110', 5.8 R): 

Have the belayer stand uphill and right of the crack as to avoid falling choss. Climb up easy but loose terrain to the start of the crack and first placements. Continue up the crack with good but runout protection on loose rocks to a small roof. Pull the roof on good but potentially loose jugs (depending which jugs you choose). Once past the roof, continue to work your way up the disappearing crack until you get to a nice, large ledge leading to the stemmy corner at the start of pitch 2. The more you can stem on this pitch, the better. And make sure to test holds before you yank on them; tread lightly. Build your anchor in a nice, uniform diagonal crack. Save at least one 0.5 for this anchor as it is bomber.

Pitch 2 (110', 5.7+ PG13)

Cross the slab ledge into the corner system starting pitch 2 up to the huge roof with big, white blocks under it. Be careful not to yank on the white blocks - we had a big one let loose. Work up alongside the roof crack on fun, face slab movement. Pull the slab onto a ledge (crux), and the most difficult climbing is over. Enjoy an easy 5.4 slab romp with minimal protection up to the ledge sitting left of the prominent feature. Movement becomes more vertical closer to the ledge, but the holds get better and there is more opportunity for protection. There is another good diagonal crack up on the ledge which can take a bomber 0.75 for the anchor.

Walk up the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 and top out onto the grassy, steep hillside of the Helmet. You can hike up the Helmet to its prominent point facing the Sphinx if you'd like. When we went, there was a bunch of flying ants having an orgy. 

Hike down from the helmet until you find a hole in the cliffside which is easy to crawl through and hike out of. The hole is a few minutes downhill from the slabby section of rock you have to go over on your way down the helmet feature.

From the saddle, hike left up the steep hill to the base of the helmet. Find the crack to the left of the prominent ramp which is about 250-300' downhill of the helmet feature's arete.

Single rack from 0.3 - 4. Bring doubles of 0.5-1. Single rack of nuts, too.