Type: Trad, 880 ft (267 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 46.6007, 8.327
FA: unknown
Page Views: 867 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 16, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Fantastic trad climbing adventure; a rarity in Switzerland! Anchors are bolted, and a handful of bolts are judiciously placed to keep the adventure safe. Mostly stemming and pulling on flakes, with little jamming, but still will require a solid set of trad skills.  

P1 5b

60 m rope-stretcher, pretty easy even for the grade. Scramble up about 5-10 meters to a ledge marked with yellow paint (on the right). Follow the obvious seam with a bit of vegetation in it to an anchor near the dihedral 

P2 6a+

50 m up a nice left-facing dihedral. Cross a bright green smear of lichen that gives the route the name (probably), with great opportunities for protection. 1 bolt.

P3 5c+

A bit of a wandering pitch, tending left at the start, cross a short slab section and hear toward the wide flake. Clip a bolt and move right around a corner onto a ledge. Cool finishing moves traversing right and up under a small roof. Belay on the big ledge.

P4 6c+

Business time. Scramble left, clip a bolt, and pull hard. Then up through a wide left-leaning flake. 2 #4’s recommended to make it safe, and a #5 makes it comfy. Clip a bolt at the end an pull hard again for the slab traverse left to the belay. The rock becomes superb from this pitch on.

P5 6b 

Clip a bolt off the belay, then pull a nice face climbing move to the flake. Romp up the flake with excellent gear, then finish on a bolt-protected slab.

P6 5c

Cruise up a the long, easy finger crack, with some low-angle slab at the top.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Saggitarius, but arrive 50 m earlier. The name of the route is painted on, however the ’start’ for belaying with 60 m ropes is a short scramble up; you’ll be able to rappel all the way back to the trail at the end, so don’t need to bring packs up.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to #4. You could place a #5 in several spots but not essential. Anchors are all bolted.

Photos

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