Type: | Trad, 3600 ft (1091 m), 25 pitches, Grade VI |
FA: | June 15-17th 2022 ryan and Damien and matt |
Page Views: | 1,082 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jul 23, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
One for the Ladies is an excellent back country wall climb. only 7 pitches were aided, while the remaining pitches are excellent free pitches! Easier aid and excellent free climbing with nice ledges. Named in honor of the strong women in our lives.
P1) start up a flake following a thin crack to a roof 200ft 5.10. Thin gear, two bolt anchor.
make a short rap or down climb to the climbers left and rig a belay or
P2) scramble up then take a hard left behind a tree for more then 100ft before climbing up to stacked flakes and a bolt. 5th class 165ft bolt/gear.
p3) surmount the flakes and climb underneath some oaks before pulling a roof to a slanting crack into an alcove. 5.9 165ft two bolt anchor
p4) stem up above the belay into a short chimney before face climbing around a yukka to a belay ledge. 5.10 120ft two bolt anchor
p5) climb up on the right above the belay before moving left then up a corner to a ledge. continue up the chimney to a stance with a bolted anchor. loose block at belay. 200ft 5.8 two bolt anchor
p6) climb left off the belay then up a ramp making a step across move into the Maw, ow up and exit left to a stance on the left to a two bolt anchor on the left wall. A short penji was used. 5.9 a0. 160ft
P7 up a slab ramp into the Maw to a stance ledge. 5.10 180ft two bolts.
p8) up into the bottomed out OW. moving left at the third bolt. 5.7 C1 150ft. bush anchor.
p9) bushwhack up and east around a small buttress then back west up an easy boulder to the base of a short step and two rivets. 200 ft 4th
p10) a0 the rivets and scramble up and bush wack. 150ft 5th
p11) short scramble moves and bushwhacking. 100ft 4th
Sherwood Forest bivy. Route continues up down hill of the bivy. scramble up to a tree east of a big corner. Spot the slot and ow above.
p12) up three rivets up into a slot and bolt continuing past an OW to a stance 5.9 A0. Be careful of the expanding flake.150ft
p13) climb up into a chinmney and ow to an incredible hand crack. belay in an oak. some dirt. 200ft 5.9
p)14) up and left into a fist crack into an OW and up a dirty corner crack under an OW. 130ft c1
Main ledge.Strong morning sun goes into the shade a little after 1pm on the upper wall. Access/exit to the west.
P15) start up an OW to an bolt and face climb the thin flake to the right passing four bolts before climbing up a right leaning crack to a two bolt anchor. 150ft 5.8 C1 some dirt.
P16) move left off the anchor up the tricky discontinuous and once dirty cracks before moving right to a fixed pin. Lower around the corner to the belay ledge just past a bolt. C1+150 ft gear anchor.
P17) up into the overhanging corner and under the roof arriving at a two bolt belay. Steep! C1+ 150ft
P18) out the roof up a short bolt ladder to a flake(mind the blocks inside) then moving right to a stance with finger a crack. 120ft gear anchor.
P19) Up the crack thru a roof and stem up past some stacked blocks ending at a ledge. We cat napped here. 5.10a 120ft gear anchor. (possible link 19/20?)
P20) 4am Crack-up the offwidth/chimney to a plush ledge. Wish we napped here.100ft 5.7 gear anchor.
P21) up into “the Womb” exiting at the top to a stance. 5.9 180ft fantastic climbing. Gear anchor.
P22) continue up the corner exiting out a heroic roof onto the head wall. belay at the lip 100ft 5.8 gear anchor.
p23) questing plus traversing up to a bolt and belaying on a floating flake of mystery. Look down! 5.5 80ft Gear anchor.
P24)leave the floating mystery flake and traverse right on a golden knobby sidewalk past two bolts intersecting a short crack and up to a two bolt anchor. 5.4 plus silly awesome sky walking 120ft ( you can traverse right into Astro gil from here)
P25) spot the bolt above the belay and climb to it. Slab on up subtle features weaving your way past 8 bolts to a ledge. at the second to last bolt it is possible to climb right to the last pitch belay and finish on astro gil. 140 feet 5.7 gear anchor 1.5”-2.5”.
P26) 5th class up and left past a tree up easy slabs. 110 feet
A brief 3rd class exit on to the summit slabs 400 feet
Location
approach the bottom via rappelling wall of ages( equipped with carabiners and tat) or hiking down from crown valley.
The bottom 14 pitches are east of Wall of Ages starting under and to the east of the giant Maw feature.
the middle 3 pitches start east of Time Warp on the middle wall above sherwood forest.
Upper 11 pitches are on the south east face in between Time Warp and Astro Gil. Scramble down on the west side of the dome until at the “nose” of tehipite dome(wall of ages rappel starts here). a large pillar has the time warp chimney on the west side and the wall of ages Pitch 19 on the east side. The start is down hill to the east about 300 feet and starts at the next big corner. A sea of bushes guards the base.
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