Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: N. Beidleman, T. Perkins, S. Malkin, 2004
Page Views: 350 total · 8/month
Shared By: D F on Jul 19, 2021
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This weird route is more like a V2+ boulder problem with some forgettable 5.10 approach climbing and a gear-protected finish on easy slab. I enjoyed this route more for the novel puzzle than for the actual movement. Fortunately there is a small ledge that allows a person to down climb and recover while reconnoitering the crux before committing to the blind moves.

Once over the lip, a long 5.7 slab leads to the chains above—it's not a bad idea to bring 1.5" and 2" cams to protect the finish.

Location Suggest change

This route starts in the black, jumbled rock about 15 feet left of Magic Fingers and weaves up between the triangular corners and roofs at the top.

Protection Suggest change

A couple of finger- to hand-size cams, 9 quickdraws, and a 60-meter rope.

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