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Walking the Tightrope

5.12b, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: George Ide, Hobey Walker 1996
New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Description

An excellent route that has been cleaned and re-equipped with stainless hardware.

Start: 15 ft left of Raging Raven. Move up to an overlap, then follow the right-facing, right-rising undercling-flakes to a jug shelf. Pinch and crimp hard up the steep face (crux) to a right-rising shelf, then embark on a pumpy journey of excellent, long moves on square cuts and incuts to a fixed anchor. 

Protection

5 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor. Cams not needed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

  5.12b
[Hide Comment] The rock at the start is horrifying, crumbling kitty litter--an unfortunate characteristic of the band of rock at the bottom of this cliff. I recommend stick-clipping the second bolt to avoid a nasty fall in this section. Raging Raven (the route to the right) suffers the same problem; the shedding holds have bumped the difficulty of that pitch up a couple letter grades.

Other than that, I really enjoyed this route.

If you're toproping, I advise unclipping the first two bolts to reduce the swing. Jul 12, 2021