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Un Pipistrelli Al Sole

5.10+, Sport, 525 ft (159 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: G. Zappa, M. Valtorta, A. Malandri, 2005
International > Europe > Italy > Val Masino > Val di Mello > Brontosauro

Description

A modern itinerary, well-bolted by Mello standards, and a good/safe introduction to the pure and technical friction slabs found in the valley.    

L1:  Stem off the tree to begin a long pitch of technical slab.  A "steep" crux leads to easier runout climbing up to a nice ledge where the diagonal crack of Troglos is visible.  Belay on two bolts.  45m 6b+

L2:  Follow the line of bolts on more featured rock towards a rounded arete.  Topping the arete out directly gives 6b and the left variant gives 6a.  40m

L3:  Pitch in common with the neighboring traditional route Riposte di Bakunin.  No gear (optional medium sized cam), but the climbing is always easy anglings towards the outcropping of trees at the base of the final slab.  30m 3a

L4:  A beautiful, sustained friction slab takes you directly up the face to the summit of the formation.   45m 6a+

The route can then be rappelled easily (double ropes mandatory).  There may also be a walkoff, but we did not pursue this option. 

Grades and commitment rating quoted from "Val di Mello" by Mario Sertori.   

Location

The base of Brontosauro is not very large, and the beginning of the route can be found from a small branched tree near the base that leads to an evident line of bolts.

Protection

Bolts w/optional medium sized cam for P3.