PRINT: Climb The Pecker, San Francisco Bay Area

The Pecker

V4, Boulder,

Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock & S… > Castle & Sanbo… > Castle Rock Loop > Magoos > Beak

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Feeling peckish? Want to add a few more moves to The Beak Traverse? Try the low start: The Pecker! Below the starting slot and hueco on The Beak Traverse, use the block and horizontal slot to start and then link up with the rest of the traverse. This sit start adds three to four moves and about a V grade.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting holds seen here.

Start at the lowest obvious holds and follow the bulge up into The Beak Traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Pfiffner

This has my vote for the worst climb at castle rock May 17, 2023