Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Mike Engel and Bob Archbold 1986
Page Views: 358 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jim Slichter on Jun 8, 2021
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This climb ascends directly up the dark water streak immediately to the left of Weird Water and to the right of Little Dripper.  The first two bolts are easily seen 10-15 feet to the right of the large grassy platform where you rack up for Little Dripper.  The best way to find the start is to locate the 5.7 finger crack start for Weird Water (20-25' down and right of the grassy platform) and then move back to the left 10'.  There are some thin moves getting past the first bolt and up to the second bolt which is only 6' higher.  The climb continues straight up the water streak with another difficult section around the fifth bolt.  Enjoyable climbing on good rock leads to the anchors shared with Weird Water.  

You can rappel off with one 70 meter rope or two 60's.  Toproping with a single 70 is possible but the belayer may have to climb up 5-10' in order for the climber to start at the bottom of the climb.

Location Suggest change

Follow the directions for Weird Water to reach this climb located on the tall NW face of Middle Marker. 

Protection Suggest change

10 bolts. A new double bolt anchor at the top.

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