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Foot Loose

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 14 votes
FA: May 1985 Mike Pajunas, Joe Parsley
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > Wall of Shadows > Right Side

Description

Looking for a classic chimney close to home? About 100 feet right (west) of the Rise Up Arete/Tete Gully routes is a clean prominent clean chimney starting 40 feet up. Steep blocky climbing - on two new bolts - leads into the chimney. There are excellent face holds out right, but you'll have to wiggle left to place pro deep in the crack. Nuts work best. Exiting to the ledge out right and the anchor is the crux. An optional 3 inch cam protects the finish. Thanks to Josh Elliott for placing an anchor and uncovering this forgotten gem from the 80s.

Location

About 100 feet right (west) of the Rise Up Arete/Tete Gully routes

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Footloose. Starts on the lower left, then up the fractured blocks, into the gulley, which becomes a stemming chimney climb to a flat ledge
[Hide Photo] Footloose. Starts on the lower left, then up the fractured blocks, into the gulley, which becomes a stemming chimney climb to a flat ledge
Upper section of Footloose, showing the entrance before the chimney begins
[Hide Photo] Upper section of Footloose, showing the entrance before the chimney begins
Chris Alexander finds a jug just before disappearing deeper into the chimney. Route eventually exits the chimney on its right side
[Hide Photo] Chris Alexander finds a jug just before disappearing deeper into the chimney. Route eventually exits the chimney on its right side
Start of Foot Loose is on the pillar between the climbers; chimney is visible higher up
[Hide Photo] Start of Foot Loose is on the pillar between the climbers; chimney is visible higher up
Doug approaching the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Doug approaching the chimney.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is route 118 on the topo shown on the main page for Wall of Shadows. There is a small cave to the left of the start that’s at ground level and has a 3’ high entrance.

Note that the second bolt on the route is in need of replacement. Jun 7, 2021
Nate Ball

  5.9
[Hide Comment] The bottom 1/3 of this route is pretty awful, though the chimney experience does redeem it somewhat. Climbing on loose blocks held in by their own weight. Once you're into the chimney proper, the climbing improves. It's surprisingly steep at times. I found the 3rd bolt to be unnecessary, as the crack in the back offers ample protection options. Stemming out the top is somewhat strenuous, and a little heady to protect, as the right side of the crack flares inward, making it easy to cling onto but impossible to place cams. Thankfully there are a couple pods for nuts. I don't think I placed anything bigger than a 3/4" cam (0.4 BD).

Agreed on replacing the 2nd bolt (original). It's drilled at an odd angle or the head of the bolt is bent such that it doesn't sit flush on the hanger. This one would be easy to pull, patch, drill a new hole, and reuse the hanger (it's stainless). Jul 7, 2021
Josh Elliott
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] The route is in good condition as of July 2022, "bottom 1/3 of this route" is holding steady. All new hardware. This is a really unique climb for Rocky Butte! Jul 8, 2022
Ian Bloom
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] I can see this one becoming very popular. Sep 4, 2024