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SE Ridge AKA Shield Wall
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in Mt. Washington
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Left ventricle TR V0 4 |
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SE Ridge AKA Shield Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Washington Ellinor Traverse (Ridge) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow X |
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Winter Direct T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 13 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,765 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Tobin Akehurst on Jun 3, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This route is a full value adventure and a serious test in the schools of gear placement and route finding. The scenery, position, and exposure on the climb are fantastic, but the rock quality is generally poor. I found the most difficult climbing to be the cleanest and easiest to protect but the nature of the route still requires as few as two placements in a 60m pitch.
The Shield Wall is only the first half of the route; 7 pitches of low 5th to 5.7. Once atop the wall you begin the process of navigating the parapets of the of the SE Ridge; three 30m rappels and an additional 6 pitches of climbing from 3rd to 5.7
The highlight of the route was the crux pitch passing the 2nd tower on the right by climbing a well protected finger crack, I thought this pitch was stout for the grade.
Retreat from anywhere on the route would be complicated and potentially dangerous.
Descend the standard route.
The Shield Wall is only the first half of the route; 7 pitches of low 5th to 5.7. Once atop the wall you begin the process of navigating the parapets of the of the SE Ridge; three 30m rappels and an additional 6 pitches of climbing from 3rd to 5.7
The highlight of the route was the crux pitch passing the 2nd tower on the right by climbing a well protected finger crack, I thought this pitch was stout for the grade.
Retreat from anywhere on the route would be complicated and potentially dangerous.
Descend the standard route.
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