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Sweathearts (Extension)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Candy Mountain
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Abba-zaba S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Achilles Heel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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All Gas, No Brakes S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arc Reactor S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bald Ambitions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Banana Laffy Taffy S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Better Call Saul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Big League Chew S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Big Sky (extension) S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Booger Candy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Booger Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bumpers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Candy Ass S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Candy Panties S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cerebral Moment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crème Brûlée S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Discount Bungie Jump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Elder Statesman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eye Candy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Frogland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Frontier Justice (extension) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Gracious Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Hog Farm Fire of '97, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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He's Not Your Buddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hive Mind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hive Mind (Extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Heart Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ironman S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Kozzybear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nose Candy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Not His Panties (link-up) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Obturation (Project) S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Oompa Loompa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Powder Puff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quantum Foam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Queen Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sea of Trees S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sex & Candy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Short Round S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Six Inches From Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stark Industries S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stevia (Candy Panties Right Extension) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stinger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Styx S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sugar Burner S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sugar Daddy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sugar Pill S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweathearts (Extension) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sweet Thin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sweet Tooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet'n Low S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tainted Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Top Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ungracious Lee S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Willy Wonka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wizard and Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wonkamobile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wormhole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.8447, -93.0459 |
| FA: | Cole Fennel |
| Page Views: | 580 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | JD Borgeson on Jun 1, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
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Description
This is a nice little bouldery extension to the 5.11 pumpfest.
Clip a draw to the anchor of I Heart Joe and paddle your way up the ledges. Trend a bit left to avoid vulture guano stalagmites and get a nice no hands rest. When you're ready, romp to the roof and lean out for an easy first clip in the roof (you will be heading out of the roof to the climbers right of the draw, so keep that in mind when clipping). Pull the short boulder problem with perfect crimps, ending in great holds. Surf jugs another 15 feet for a steep but moderate finish.
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