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Unfinished Business
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in E. Poison Ivy Wall ("The Cave")
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Basket Case, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Born on the Fourth of July T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bush League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Calf Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crimps for Wimps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep End, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Don't Break It if You Can't Buy It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Final Exam, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs for Thugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Landers Last Gander S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leaves of Three S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Longaberger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Major League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ninja Skill Called Trad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pistol Squat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Reach for your Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Roofs for Goofs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sink or Swim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twelfth 12, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unfinished Business S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wet Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jordan Katz Aug '21 |
| Page Views: | 672 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on May 31, 2021 |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
Follows the steepest part of the arete between the Poison Ivy Wall and Genesis Wall. Great rests separate four distinct cruxes. Mantle up over the blank slab to the first ledge, then head slightly left over the first roof towards the big overhanging prow. Pull over that roof, and then head up and over the final roof on the airy arete.
Best in the fall, but climbable year-round! The starting moves off the ground are often dripping water in late winter and into the spring, but they can be skipped by walking in from from the right across the ledge under Genesis Wall. The rest of it will be almost always dry.
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