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Green Mountain Gringo

V7 PG13, Boulder,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: The Verm
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Green Cave
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Description

Before you freak out that this is already on MP hear me out. They're different problems.

"Lest one get the impression that Smuggler's Notch has no steep powerful problems, there is one drastic exception to this rule 50 yards uphill and left behind the stone bus shelter. Green Mountain Gringo (B1) hand traverses slopes and pockets for a body length and a half beneath the biggest roof around, then blasts another body length straight out the roof via a football-size quartz chunk to a nervous, landing-from-hell, one-chance-only slap to big holds a foot over the lip. GMG is as gripping as a doctor with a bone-saw and definitely out of character for the area." - John Sherman, Stone Crusade (1994)

Andy Salo and I chatted with Bill Patton in the parking lot where he recounted the story of Verm cratering into the talus nearly splitting his head before lighting up a smoke and firing this climb next go like the legend he is. Intrigued by the story, confusion over the name Green Egg vs Green Mountain Gringo and the various exits, we went to check it out and try and formalize names, grades, etc.

Turns out the OG Green Mountain Gringo is wicked good and deserving of more ascents. It's better, harder, and  scarier than Green Egg (which continues to traverse and exits more left where the roof is smallest). The lines share a start and some traversing but do not feel contrived and I think it's fitting that this climb has its' own entry. Verm kinda shits on the Notch in Stone Crusade but talks this climb up quite a bit.

Location

As with Green Egg start on obvious start holds far right below the roof. Traverse left until you are under 2 pockets on the roof which you will use to "blast out the roof". The foot long finish holds over the lip are a helpful too in finding out how this climbs. Jugs abound above them to a high top out.

Protection

many pads and a spotter

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tschiele
Vermont
  V7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Sherman called this B1 but it feels comparable to modern V7s though the spice factor may play a role in that. Hopefully more people get on this climb now because it's rad and historic. May 25, 2021
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I always thought this line deserved its own entry on MP! Thanks for the addition Ted! May 25, 2021
MattH
CO mostly
[Hide Comment] Didn't have the pads or guts to go for this one but it looks incredible and I wish I had. A clear line of holds running straight out the middle of the roof. Oct 12, 2021