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Historical Friction

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Lincoln/Woo… > Russell Crags (… > Ruin
Warning Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. DetailsDrop down

Description

This feature captured my attention immediately when I first explored the area. A soaring corner guarded by a steep challenging opening sequence. I think it could become an area classic.

Start up with a slab on your right and blocky orange rock on your right that seems like it wants to stay up but don't pull too hard on it. Use some muscle and some tricks to pull through the small roof using cracks and face holds. Once you are established in the corner it gets a little easier but keeps you thinking on the lead. 

Though this feature had seen come climbing in the past it's history is unclear. From what I found it didn't appear to have been free climbed but sections may have been aided or inspected. If anyone knows more please share. 

Location

In the middle/left part of the cliff you won't be able to miss this amazing corner. 

Protection

6 bolts to anchor. The first bolt is shared with Lucky You. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stemming above the roof
[Hide Photo] Stemming above the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This is one of the better 5.10's at Merriam/Russell. Good rock (after the first bit) and engaging and tenuous climbing make this a standout at the crag. Feb 12, 2024
Mike Gagnon
Plymouth, NH
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This felt like an honest 11 to me Jay, but then again 5.10 is my kryptonite. Either way it’s committing, sustained, and super enjoyable feature driven climbing Feb 12, 2024