Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Derek Field & Brian Cresson (July 16, 2020) --- ground-up
Page Views: 491 total · 14/month
Shared By: Derek Field on May 19, 2021
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Jam through the initial overhang on awkward fists. Stem the wide section into progressively easier terrain, leaving the train-track cracks behind. Instead of slogging up the rest of the deteriorating system, finish with some contrived yet fun Sportz Action up and right past two lead bolts.

Rappel from two-bolt chain anchor.

Location Suggest change

Train-track cracks in the first right-facing corner downhill of Tower Station's namesake tower.

Protection Suggest change

Double set cams to 4" + one each 5-6" cams + two lead bolts

Two-bolt chain anchor

Etymology Suggest change

The name is a reference to the Stone Temple Pilots song, sure, but more importantly, to the gnarly convoluted ground-fall that Brian took on his ground-up FA attempt. After climbing ten feet up, he went to place his first piece but slipped out before he could do so. On his way down, he bounced off the starting pedestal, shoulder-checked me clear off my feet, and proceeded to cartwheel downslope into all the sharp pokey plants. He walked away with a leg injury that sidelined him for several months, in addition to a medley of cuts, scrapes, and puncture wounds. The most impressive of the puncture wounds involved an agave spine that pierced through his helmet and embedded itself in his head until he removed said helmet (see photo). Homie was good to belay my lead, and then we transported ourselves from one Tower Station to another (if you catch drift). Eight months later, he returned for his redpoint -- this time thankfully without the bloody agave-spine "redpoint".

Photos

0 Comments