All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > After Rain Wall

Crypto Sucka

Name: Crypto Sucka
Rating: 3.0

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in After Rain Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brontosaurus is Back S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crypto Sucka S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Five Niner c/d Plus Minus PG-13 R X T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pleasuresaurus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Unknown Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Scott Clark
Page Views:	329 total · 11/month
Shared By:	D Scott Clark on May 13, 2021
Admins:	Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing Details

The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."

Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.

Description

Climb through the middle of the obvious roof. Start off on interesting and surprisingly fun slab moves get you into an awkward position under the roof. Traverse right to the holds by the lip, then figure out your sequence for pulling over the lip. Delicate face moves get you to another small roof with easy climbing to the top.

Right now, there's only one bolt at the top, but it's easily accessed from the top, and there are plenty of places to add hand-size cams to make an anchor.

Note: it is best not to clip the bolt in the roof (bolt 4) until you're halfway through the traverse. I put the bolt in 100% the wrong spot, but once you clip it before making the move to the lip, you're glad it's there.

This granite had a ton of flaky rock on it that I've tried to clean off, but stuff will keep breaking until it gets climbed a bit. I'd probably give it another star if it weren't for the crumbly patina.