Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Darrow Kirkpatrick, Jim Brown, Todd Keller, 1981
Page Views: 521 total · 12/month
Shared By: Will Alford on May 10, 2021
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

The first bolted route at Old Rag and done on homemade aluminum hangers no less. This route still stands as heady sandbagged test piece. It was originally done in two pitches with the first pitch ending in the horizontal crack below the third bolt. Start in the shallow right facing corner approximately 10ft right of the start of Pincer Perfect, down and left of the first bolt. The shallow corner has a deceivingly hard mantle to get above but once you’re past it there is some gear in a small left slanting crack. Be extremely careful as it is probably a ground fall if you come off here.  Continue to move up and right through the first two bolts on good crystals. Once you’ve made it past the second bolt, keep it together on the insecure slab as you inch higher and higher towards the right leaning dike. Above the dike, it’s possible to get gear in the horizontal to protect the moves through the bulge to clip the third bolt. Easier terrain up and right from here will take you to the shared bolt anchor on Pincher Perfect. 

Location Suggest change

Just to the right of Pincer Perfect, this route starts on the short and shallow right facing corner down and left of the first bolt. 

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, .2"-1" cams, stoppers, bolt anchor

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