A Queen's Jewels and Riches
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Fred Knapp, Sharon Sadlier, Jules Raymond, and Richard Starnes,1987 |
Page Views: | 494 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Spencer Weiler on May 8, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1. Start up some very poor loose rock for 10-15 feet without great gear until you can finally get a good hand-size cam in the solid rock, then continue up hands and wide hands leaning slightly left on good rock to a junkier section of loose sugar rock. Build a belay somewhere in here (avoiding nasty rope drag); or enter into a bit of a chimney/wide section, and continue until you can merge with Squeeze Box's chimney. Continue up to the shoulder, and build a gear belay.
P2. This is Squeeze Box's summit pitch. Climb terrible, sugary rock up and left, and perform a slabby high step move to the top. I hope none of the hand holds blow up. This is short.
Location
This is another route on Defecating Monk that is a bit of a step up in my opinion compared to the standard route, Squeeze Box. It avoids the nasty, poop chimney and gives a nice section of splitter hands/wide hands instead. It is located on the west aspect of the tower, just walk 10 seconds around the corner from Squeeze Box's start.
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