Requiem for a Dream

Requiem for a Dream is perhaps Eagles' proudest line, tackling four pitches straight up the Dream Wall to the top of the formation. This line originally opened as a single pitch route. Dee and Dave had initially envisioned a line to the top starting with Yap Dog Ego as its first pitch. While this variation can still be done (more on that later), they decided to name the full route after the first pitch variation that allowed for the easiest route to the top.

Requiem for a Dream (5.10c, 250', 4 pitches)

P1 (5.10c, 95'): The original single pitch line. A long, adventurous pitch with enjoyable and varied climbing. Double set of anchors at the top, one with sport lower-offs and one set for belaying for the second pitch. (Dee and Dave replaced the farthest left bolt with a more in-line one with a long permadraw to decrease rope drag. The old bolt is still there waiting for us to hack-saw it off – do not use!)

P2 (5.10c, 55'): 9 draws needed if you clip the middle of the long chain and the hanger above. Somewhat tricky steep slab moves down low then engaging, enjoyable, unusual moves getting into and moving through overhung shallow dihedral moves leading to a bulge pull-over. Great exposure and fun. Ends about 150' up.

P3 (5.8-, 50'): 5 bolts. Varied easy scramble and then a very brief section of more thought requiring movement.

P4 (5.8+/5.9-, 50'): easy scramble and 3rd class terrain leading to the harder finish

Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked, but this will increase rope drag.

The route can be rapped or walked off.

Topping out - a note from Dee and Dave: It's very “airy” up there at the very top, and if you're not used to this kind of un-roped exposure, you might want to hike up first and check it out if you're wanting to do a walk off rather than rap down. Beautiful wildflowers up there in the late Spring. Getting down to the top out anchors feels more sketchy than hiking up out of them. We have put up red flagging for the trail/route to scramble/hike out on so it's identifiable. The route/trail from below goes uphill on the west side and heads up past “Bones of Ymir”, goes through a steep narrow ravine, then veers right, following the red flagging, and then drops down in exposed terrain to the top out anchors. Be especially careful when descending or ascending in this last exposed stretch above the top out anchors, as the soil is ravelly and can slide on you (especially going downhill when the soil is dried out). From the start of the walkoff at the 4th pitches top anchor, it's still maybe around 125' higher up to the very top of Eagle's Rest, directly above them.

Rapping - a note from Dee and Dave: Doing 4 rappels works well. You can probably reduce this to 3 rappels no problem with a 70 meter rope combining the top 2 pitches (not sure if a 60 meter can safely do this). Rope pull might be hard, along with a risk of pulling rock down on you, but don't know as we haven't tried it. An 80 meter rope from the top of the second pitch to the ground is too short.

Variation - Yap Eagle Requiem (5.11a, 250', 5 pitches)

P1 - Yap Dog Ego (5.10d, 55'): Start with Yap Dog Ego. This was the original vision for the line to the top, and worth your time if you're looking for the most challenging of the options.

P2 - Eagle Hunger (5.11a, 40'): Technical steep thin face climbing. Kind of a similar but easier inversion of “Living the Dream” to the left (11d), where, rather than having limited inset holds to use, you instead have an overabundance of smaller extruded holds to choose from that lead to somewhat similar technical movement. Super fun but really short- ~40' (an 80' route of this terrain would likely be in 12+ terrain difficulty due to the endurance/pump factor).

P3-5: same as P2-4 of Requiem for a Dream

Variation - Wet Requiem (5.10c/d, 255', 4 pitches)

P1 - Wet Dreams (5.10c/d, 100'): Climb Wet Dreams for 80' then continue another 20' to the anchors for Eagle Hunger.

P2-4: same as P2-4 of Requiem for a Dream

You can combine sections of these variations in an number of ways, but the main variations are listed above. The linkups have been done and named. For example, "Requiem Eagle Requiem", "Requiem Eagle", and "Yap Requiem" all indicate which routes have been linked.

Thanks to Dee and Dave for the work they put into these lines!

Between Livin' a Dream and Yap Dog Ego, climbs into shallow right-facing dihedral before continuing straight up.

Bolts - P1: ?, P2: 9, P3: 5, P4: ?

Pitch one has somewhere in the neighborhood of 12-14 bolts, so if pitching it out, bring at least that many. If linking 1 & 2, bring 20+ draws.