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The Phoenix

5.9, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 37 votes
FA: A Collins S.Dumler A.Wehn S. Rutherford
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Atlantis > Atlantis S Side
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

You can start on the first 2 bolts of Ali cat then step right of the corner and head up the bolted face between the crack and a tree passing 5 bolts to the obvious belay from a dirty ledge in the giant chimney. Or scramble up to the ledge and belay from the base of the wall skipping anything to do with Ali cat. There are a lot of loose rocks at the base of the climb and you can send one down on a belayer on Ali cat so be careful!

Pitch two:

follow 5 bolts up the steep face (Crux 1) that eases to a massive ledge with rap rings under a roof.

Pitch three:

climb past 5 bolts through the Roof (Crux 2) to rap rings.

you can either rap each pitch or do I two raps. 

Location

Look for the shiniest bolts that go to the sky 15' up and right of Ali

Protection

Set of draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Single 70 m rap from 3rd gets you to the base of the climb!
[Hide Photo] Single 70 m rap from 3rd gets you to the base of the climb!
Finishing P2
[Hide Photo] Finishing P2
Sam is totally pleased with the climb, I swear.
[Hide Photo] Sam is totally pleased with the climb, I swear.
Mat and John on p3 of The Phoenix
[Hide Photo] Mat and John on p3 of The Phoenix

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew.Johnson91
Fountain Hills, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Some fun movement on pitch 3, good potential for linkups with other routes higher up. May 6, 2021
Dennis Williams
Mesa
 
[Hide Comment] The height seems incorrect. We climbed 3 pitches (skipped the 2 bolts for Ali Cat). Our 70m rope got us down in 1 rap to the ledge above and to the right of the base of Ali Cat. I was hanging by the stopper knots about 3 feet above the ledge. Jun 23, 2021
Ben Albrecht
Chandler, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment]
  • Descent beta*
With a 70 m rope I rapped from the 3rd p to the spot I belayed directly below the first bolt. I had to undo the knots and I tapped directly onto the ground with rope stretch. Picture above!

I LOVED the second pitch! Really neat line albeit short pitches. tons of natural pockets and the normal desirable QCC features. Definitely can link pitches if you use some long slings smartly in addition to draws. Almost think you can do the whole thing in one pitch if you wanted. Also, continue up and over and turn this Into a 6 pitch climb by doing 3rd pitch of trident and up the throne. I did the link up of the Phoenix and the 3rd of the trident before it got too hot! Highly advise to keep it going! Jul 15, 2021
Tyler Collins
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Linked with P3 of the trident. Scrambled up to the base of P2, a couple 5.easy moves required. Climb was nice and clean for a new route, kudos to the FA team. Good practice for multi pitch and lead swapping. Well protected but pitches are pretty short. Aug 1, 2021
Sam Cook
phoenix
 
[Hide Comment] nice moderate addition to Atlantis. would be great for teaching/learning multi pitch on. it has good belay ledges and fun moves. Aug 2, 2021
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] P1 is about 5.7.

You can link P1-P2 if you're a confident 5.10 climber, the start of P2 is cruxy 5.9 and has a ledge so only link if confident, I found it fun linking it, P1 was basically just a run up!

P3 starts with a similar cruxy overhanging 5.9 but then eases and is only like 25' and you can just top rope your second if you want.

If you want to skip P1 to keep it all at 5.9, you can walk around to the base of P2 too. Jan 4, 2022
Andrew Park
Grand Junction, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Did the route in a single pitch. Around 14 draws and a few slings to extend the bulges and anchors. 70 M rope with plenty to spare.

You will encounter 4 set of anchors if you decide to do Trident as well. Belay from this. Continue with a short scramble and a mini down climb to get to P3 of the Trident. Apr 3, 2022
Ian Gunn
New Paltz, NY
 
[Hide Comment] 3 excellent short pitches with fun moves right off of the belay. I enjoyed having some small cams with me. May 30, 2023