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Morpheus
5.10a,
Trad, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
FA: Chad Ambrose and BS, first recorded ascent
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Thumb Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Climb the steep but short finger crack to a pin on the left, move left again the the thin cracks of the S Matrix. Follow this to the top of the first pitch. A one rope rappel will get you to the ground.
Location
This climbs the finger crack 35' right of the start of the S Matrix.
Protection
Small cams up to a #2 camalot
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