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Dark Shadows

5.10+, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: FA: 1979 - R. McGown, J. Olson, M Simpson; FFA: 1990 - Dave Sowerby, Mike Sessions
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall

Description

Ascend good holds to the first bolt before making your way up into the left facing, thin hands corner. Traverse left under the dark shadows of the looming roof, and then work further left to clip a second bolt on a blank face. After some rumination of how to pull through this crux, fire it and romp your way up good holds to the mussy hooks!

Location

Far right side of Bat Wall. Look for the huge roof above the left facing corner.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to #0.75 BD, including micro cams and small nuts. Mussy hooks to lower off.

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Dark Shadows
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Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] You know how 5.11d is hideously difficult at Index; well, I think 5.10d is infamously sandbagged at Broughton (Lost Boys, From Something to Nothing, Gorilla Love Affair, and this climb too) Apr 26, 2021
C h a d
[Hide Comment] Add Amazon Woman to the list.

Chad Apr 26, 2021
d sowerby
[Hide Comment] Hmm......what could the connection be between Amazon Woman and Dark Shadows?
"Extinction" at Madrone could be on your list also, at least according to some comments. Apr 28, 2021
d sowerby
[Hide Comment] Historical note: The original name for this route was "Shadowdancer". Mike and I freed it, and to keep with the 'shadow' and the 'vampire' theme we re-named it "Dark Shadows" after the old TV show.
On a side-note -- he was recovering from dental surgery and I was half-recovered from a bout of 'flu. We were not a lively team. Jun 7, 2021